Mission: Moscow
Activities
By Sandra White, University of Florida

So far, our semester has been very busy. Since Moscow is still a foreign country to us, everything we see is a wonderful treat. We have spent two days exploring the Kremlin complex. With many antiquated buildings, original churches and museums full of artifacts, a person can spend a lot of time just exploring a few tourist attractions. The view from within the Kremlin is just as stunning as viewed from the outside. Kremlin, which is a Russian word meaning “fortress” is surrounded by a spectacular red brick wall. The wall is at the heart of downtown Moscow and the colorful spires that rise above the wall dares the visitor to take a look of the treasures within the walls. Just outside the Kremlin is the Red Square, which is the home of Lenin’s Mausoleum, St. Basil’s Cathedral, the GUM shopping mall and the State Historical Museum among other buildings. In historical times, this square was a huge market where many Russians gathered to sell their wares. Izmaylovski Park is another tourist place. At one end of the park is a large open-air market, which attracts many tourists due to the plethora of vendors. The park itself is 1.16 square miles and is a popular place for people to take children sledding, to cross-country skiing, to walk dogs or simply to get away from city noises. We greatly enjoyed the scenery as we walk through the park. During our time in the park, we stopped to build two snowmen and had a snowball fight. There is nothing like a big park, piles of snow, and no adult supervision to feel like a kid again. Some of us also visited Gorky Park to skate. In the summer it is an amusement park, but in the winter it is converted into a huge ice skating rink. Skates are available for rent and you can spend an entire day skating on the paths. Another adventure that we participated in was Sergiev Posad, a small town about two hours train ride from Moscow. The main attraction is the Trinity Monastery of St. Sergiev, which was a place of pilgrimage for both tsars and peasants, with many churches and museums. Some of the reasons many people, Russians and tourists alike, travel to Sergiev Posad are to visit monks, to attend services, or to get married. Many of the walls inside the cathedrals have breathtaking and ornate iconography.

About 60 kilometers commute from Moscow lies Trinity Monastery of St. Sergei in the town of Sergiev Posad. Picture courtesy of Olivia Yu

If you wish to buy matryoshka dolls (nesting dolls), traditional Russian gifts, this is the perfect town. Matryoshka dolls originated here in 1890. Walking around in the suburbs, which is colder than the city, during a windy Moscow winter is a unique experience. Ice is a definite problem farther from the cities, so choose locations judiciously if you want to visit in the winter. Also, check whether the buildings at a particular site are open. Many buildings are not open to visitors in the winter. Along with touring, we also attended a number of cultural events, like a piano concert at the Moscow Conservatory, in the famous Rachmaninov Hall, and an opera at the Bolshoy Theater. The conservatory has a plain exterior façade, but the inside was decorated in the traditional Russian style. The Bolshoy Theater, well known around the world, is home to the Moscow Ballet. The theater is actually a few buildings with separate stages. Buildings are decorated with gold-leaf ornaments and glow with vibrant rich colors. If you wish to see a performance in Moscow, the Bolshoy Theater is the place to go. Between classes and sightseeing, the Russians students have been keeping us occupied. Their enthusiasm for Moscow is infectious and we are looking forward capturing the beauty of many other Russian treasures.

There is a stereotype associated with Russia’s capital that for the most part is true. It is very cold here. For the past month, our group has grown to love long underwear and I personally become attached to my furry shapka (Russian word for hat.) Because of Moscow’s geographic location, it has a very cold yet slightly humid climate. With a latitude of 55 degrees North and a longitude of 37 degrees, Moscow is the rough equivalent of Grand Prarie, Alberta, Canada in North America. This means long and cold winters, humid and hot summers, and short springs and autumns. Annual precipitation averages about 29 inches and usually starts in September in the form of rain, gradually becoming snow in the latter weeks of October. After getting the daily weather report via looking out of our windows, we dress accordingly for our various excursions. Almost always, this involves layers upon layers of clothing. On one trip however, students were misled by the fact that it was one of the very few clear and sunny days that Moscow provides, and dressed for a warm day at Izmalovsky Park. And they paid for it. “By the time we got back to the Metro stop,” said Katie Harwick, “I felt as if another half an hour of shopping would have gotten me a good case of the frost bite.” Cold temperatures are highlighted by the humidity in the air. Temperatures in the winter months average a high of 16°F and a low of 3°F. Summer temperatures are a stark contrast with average temperatures in the low 70’s and daily temperatures ranging from a 45°F to 90°F. The weather and climate of Moscow played a major part of Russia’s history. Moscow was founded in its current location because it was easily defensible. Enemy armies were unwilling to brave the cold Russian winters and the wet conditions in order to capture the capital city. Napoleon and Hitler failed to recognize the effects of the cold climate in their attempts to invade Russia. To native Russians, the cold weather is a way of life. According to one of our Russian language instructors, Vera Samousseva, Moscow nearly shuts down if temperatures get excessively hot. Last summer, Moscow experienced a three week span of temperature in the low 100’s. This was very hard on Muscovites, as they have no air conditioning devices in their homes or automobiles. The elderly and ill had a particularly tough time said Samousseva. In the cold air, Russians thrive. Fur and warm clothing is everywhere and a poorly dressed American will usually draw a snicker from the occasional babushka. All vendors prepare their merchandise for the sometimes extremely cold temperatures. It is not an uncommon sight to see fruit vendors enclose their stands in clear plastic, allowing customers to view the products while keeping fruit from freezing. At times, Moscow’s weather can be trying, but the snow adds to the beauty of the many famous landmarks. The cold climate also adds a sense of adventure to the already exciting experience of studying abroad.

One of our daily activities in Moscow has been our intensive Russian language class. For the first two weeks we had class about 2.5 hours everyday. When we begin our American agricultural class, we have Russian twice a week for about 3.5 hours. The wonderful ladies who teach us are Vera Samousseva and Ludmila Krysanova. Vera and Ludmila are graduates from Moscow State University with degrees for teaching Russian as a foreign language. Classes are filled with popular learning games like “Snowball” and “Going to the Store.” So far, in our short, fulfilling experiences, we’ve noticed several things that are quite evident in our class and have compiled a list to share with everyone.

The Cyrillic alphabet provided the foundation for learning the Russian language. There are 30 letter and 3 signs.
Picture courtesy of Heather McCartney

10. This is the first class that is acceptable to come to class in slippers and a wet head. (Alright, most of us do so anyway back home).

9. No matter how hard you try; it is nearly impossible to perfectly pronounce “t” and “s” simultaneously according to the Muscovite dialect.

8. You can always answer a question with “I am having lunch in Kiev” or “on the ranch.”

7. Sometimes it’s not good to always repeat what the teacher says. Especially when she is introducing herself, you reply with “I am Ludmila,” and you happen to be a male named Dan.

6. The shortest words in English are the longest words in Russian. Example: The word “talk” is four letters long in the English language. In Russian, it is fifteen letters.

5. A “skarf” (cabinet) is not a “sharf” (scarf). We are so confused. Our teachers think we wear cabinets on our necks in cold weather. Then again, the fashion world is always looking for inventive designs.

4. When you find yourself having a great day in class by reading well and pronouncing everything correctly, chances are you are doomed to be the last person in “snowball” where your smooth class performance quickly gets sucked down the gravity-powered drain.

3. Three consonants together? Impossible. Simply cannot be done.

2. When playing “Going to the Store,” it is not customary to pretend to rob the “store” at gunpoint. (We’re not mentioning any names, Heather).

AND THE NUMBER ONE LESSON WE HAVE LEARNED IN OUR RUSSIAN EDUCATION THUS FAR…

1. Despite what Ludmila tells you, vodka is NOT a successful substitute for whiteboard cleaner. We tried.

Russian Culture 101
Culture
By Daniel Fyock, Penn State University

Many stereotypes about Russia and Russian culture prevail in America. Some common ones are that all Russians drink vodka; it is always snowing in Russia; and bears are everywhere. However, in our travels, we discovered that many of these assumptions are false. Generally, Russian people are cordial and generous. We have been fortunate to attend service at a Russian Protestant church; to be invited to Russian homes; to listen to a piano recital and an opera; and to observe birthday customs. Although, we also participate in these activities in America, being in Russia changes our perspectives on these events.

One of the first cultural events I attended was a Russian religious service. The church we attend is an extension of The Greater Grace Church of Baltimore, Maryland. Our contacts are Stan and Irina Guthrie are friends of Becky Kossler from Montana State. Church service is held in a school auditorium that seats about 100 people. Service starts promptly at 10 am and usually lasts for one and an half hour to two hours. Although the minister speaks Russian, an appreciative effort is made by the church to provide an English-speaking translator for those who do not understand Russian. At the beginning, an announcement was made in regard to two members who are getting married. Irina asked if we were going to attend. As we do not know the people, we were not expecting to be invited. She informed us that the bride and the groom welcome everyone from church to attend the wedding. Going to church, as in America, is a great social method to meet new people and to experience Russian hospitality.

After the service, we were fortunate to be invited to John and Naomi Musgrave’s home. What luck to be invited for lunch after our first church service! Initially, the Musgraves were planning to host some members from church, but they canceled and they graciously invited us instead. John helps with the New Life Bible College in Moscow and Naomi teaches English at a private school near their home. The Musgraves prepared a delicious Russo-American feast of borsht, beef stroganoff, and our first taste of ranch dressing since leaving the states! They are wonderful hosts. During our first month, we also had been invited to the homes of our new Russian friends and their families. One of them, Anatoly, gave us a tour of his town- Sergeiv Posad- and then treated us to tea and a delicious snack of homemade apple compote and fruit preserves. When invited to a Russian house, customarily one brings a small gift to show appreciation. Since the invitation was unexpected, we did not have a gift ready. Later, we had Irina, a MSAU student, deliver our thank-you gift consisting of Montana Huckleberry Tea and a card to Anatoly.

After attending church with fellow Montanan Stan Guthrie and his Russian bride Irina, we enjoyed a sumptuous lunch at the home of Americans, John and Naomi Musgrave.
Left to right: John Musgrave, Becky Kossler, Daniel Fyock, Katie Harwick, Naomi Musgrave, Heaher McCartney, Stan and Irina Guthrie
Picture courtesy of Olivia Yu

In addition, other important Russian hospitality customs that we learned include taking off your shoes when entering the host’s home and washing your hands because they will offer tea and food. A key point is not to decline the offered tea and refreshments because refusing offends the host’s hospitality. Russians like to host guests and a way to show appreciation is to partake in their dishes. Through the hospitality of both Russians and Americans we discovered some Russian culture taboos.

This week I celebrated my 23rd birthday on February 9th. Following closely behind is Sasha’s birthday, a Russian student, on February 13th. We thought that a combined birthday party on the 7th is a great way to celebrate both birthdays together. However, we learned that it was bad luck to celebrate a birthday before the actual day, but not afterwards. So, we will have a birthday party on Valentine’s Day! Similarly, on our train ride to Anatoly’s town, as we prepared to take a photo of a sleeping Russian student, another Russian student informed us that it was bad luck to take a picture of a sleeping person. Like in any foreign country, becoming acquainted with superstitions occurs only if one is living in that country for an extended length of time. Slowly but surely, we are picking up the nuances of Russian culture.

In general, Russian culture does not differ greatly from the United States. The subtle variance keeps us on our toes. With help from our Russian classmates, we are learning how Russian tick bit by bit. Hopefully, by the time we complete this program, we would have the Russians figured out.

Food is not generally a topic of much discussion in my home in Pennsylvania. We grow it, we cook it, and we eat it. No is not a commonly uttered word in our house. This mentality of trying it all came with me to Russia; but I wasn’t prepared for the sight of meat and vegetable jello. Don’t get me wrong: I love jello, meat, and vegetables, abet separately. I’ve heard that this concoction is actually prepared in the United States, but us Pennsylvania Dutch people don’t and for a good reason, too. Meat jelly or aspic has a thin slice of meat, piece of carrot and maybe an herb embodied in a square of clear, salty tasting gelatin.

A few items from the university canteen: sweet bread roll, pickled red peppers and pear compote to drink.
Picture courtesy of Heather McCartney

At one of the university canteens, (not the best place to try new Russian dishes), Olivia Yu (University of Maryland) and I speculated about trying the mysterious meat jelly. We decided to be adventurous. Aspic tastes as we expected: salty jelly with chewy meat. If trying this dish for the first time, I recommend trying at a higher quality establishment. If one is so inclined, aspic also can be prepared in the hostel, if you are willing to do battle with the kitchen. We have had great difficulties with the ovens in the communal kitchens on each floor of the hostel. Problems range from completely broken ovens to missing racks to dials that are labeled 1, 2, 3, 4 with no in-between levels. When they do turn on, the temperature is hotter on the top than the bottom. In short, it might be easier to build a campfire in one corner of the kitchen. As the stoves are electric, the burners heat very slowly. Making a cake takes a long time; when the top is burnt black, you know it’s done in the middle. To find the ingredients to make aspic or a familiar comfort food might be a little hard, but not impossible. The only challenge so far has been vanilla flavoring, which can be substituted with lemon flavoring, depending on the recipe. While we tweaked with the temperamental ovens, a much more popular method of procuring cakes and cookies for tea is a local kiosk and bakery in the underpass under the street. Heather McCartney (Montana State) and Olivia are well known in our small group for finding interesting baked goods at different market stalls. We often ask them where they found this bread or that cookie. However, fresh pastry is a little expensive for daily consumption, which is why many of us have fallen back on the old college standby: ramen noodles. These are ramen noodles with a Russian twist. They taste baked rather than fried and come with a small packet each of oil and spices. The cheapest version cost a mere 3 rubles and 15 kopecks (less than 10 US cents) for one serving. Several other options are available, although slightly more expensive. For 9 rubles 40 kopecks, the noodles come in a small Styrofoam dish, with a plastic fork, a small packet of dried vegetables, and a packet each of spices and oils. Maggi, a German brand, is the best kind, but prices are as high as 26 rubles. It does come in a nice plastic cup though, which is reusable as a drinking cup. These low prices save money for the good things in Russia: going to museums, ice-skating in Gorky Park, eating out at TGI Friday’s, and birthday parties for Russian and American students. While buying the cake and pie for the birthday party would be easier; this time we will borrow a small oven from Irina’s (a Russian student) friend instead of fighting with the ovens and ending up with a half-burned cake

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